Third time lucky

ok...this is the third time I have tried to write something. The server keeps dropping out and I lose everything so I'll keep this short.

Taj Mahal was poo. Totally overrated.

30 hour train trip was not too bad despite having an upset stomach the whole journey.

Got to Darjeeling safely. Had pretty high expectations after what I had read about the region and was a little disappointed at first but a semi-good night sleep (only woke 3-4 times with the traffic, lady next door vomiting, dogs barking and the call to prayer finally around 6am) made all the difference and I woke fresh and ready to make the most out of a seemingly bad situation.

We spent the day wandering around town. Went to 'Happy Valley Tea Plantation' and had a look around and sampled some tea. Yeah I forgot to mention I am a tea drinker since living in London. Have not had a coffee in months. I've been converted.

Anyway had a nice long walk to the top of town to observation hill. Was absolutely wonderful. Little monkeys everywhere. Heaps of baby ones too which were way cute. At the top was a joint Hindu, Buddhist temple. Prayer flags everywhere. So colorful. I left feeling completely energized and excited to be traveling again, exploring and discovering new things.

We were going to go to Tiger Hill this morning at 4am to watch the sunrise but switched the alarm off and enjoyed a nice sleep-in instead. Might go tomorrow morning. Before we head further north into Gangtok, Sikkim. We need a permit to cross into the region so hopefully that all goes ok tomorrow morning when the magistrates office opens.

that's about all for now. Think Nick has put more photos up. You can open the link from his blogspot 'hoist-the-spinnaker' on the right.

xxx

Still safe...

Back in Delhi after 2 great nights in Amritsar. People were so friendly and helpful. Not sure if it was the Golden Temple or the Diwali celebrations that drew many Indian (and Western) tourists to the area, but it was a lovely mix of people.

We have caught a couple of trains now despite rip off tour agents telling us they were unsafe...There are just as many thieves at the bus stations (and in the tourist agents office for that matter). The thing I do find most confronting about the public transport is the seeing the 'real face' of India and the conditions of which many Indians have to live in. I hate seeing it...But I know I have to, otherwise I could continue denying their existence. I cant begin to describe. Almost have to see to believe. The amount of severely deformed people is one that I never anticipated. As a Nurse I know that for these people, managing day to day tasks like eating and toileting would most difficult and then throw in the conditions in which they live (ie:pedestrian strip on the side of the road with a piece of wood to slide around on so as they don't scrape their ass on the ground as they try to move down the street), it would be near impossible. But they manage. For sure their are some that are conns and you see them sliding around, begging for money then walk off 5 minutes later... Im not talking about those. I saw one man in particular in Jammu...his upper torso twisted 90 degrees to the right of his lower body (if that makes sense) and legs curled under him. Like some form of cystic fibrosis. I do not know how he could breath. His lung capacity drastically reduced with the lack of flexibility of his intercostal muscles or I should say ribcage. I know I might be going on about it but its senarios like these that I am seeing every day that blow my mind. There is so much to take in that I don't know what to do with it all at the moment. I want to help them all but know that this is impossible. I give money or fruit to some kids begging for money only to have what feels like a thousand more see you do this and ask for some too. It is so hard to say no. And I am left with a horrible feeling of guilt for the rest of the day. I then take out my frustrations on poor Nick...Who is dealing with the same issues but has been in similar before and knows what I am going through. His patience with me is what keeps me going. I think I have told him every day for two weeks that I am ready to go home today...He knows I am not though.

So yeah...that feels a bit better. As I was saying am in Delhi again tonight. Off to Agra (Taj Mahal) at 6am tomorrow then back to Delhi at midnight. We have a train booked for 6 am the following morning to Darjeeling, so we might go sit at the train station with the homeless Indians. See if I can get a better understanding of how they do it everyday of their lives.

And we are safe. Will write again as soon as we can.

Love and hugs xxxxx....and see you soon! Yay!

Just a quickie

to let you know I am safe. I just wrote a post but this stupid computer died right before I got to publish it.

Made it out of Kashmir ok. Security tight at the airport. Think I went through 5 X-ray machines and 4 body pat downs. They went through my entire handbag and I nearly lost the good ol' Vaseline until I put it on my lips to prove that I really was just lip jelly.

We had just got to altitude when the seat belt sign came on for decent. Very quick flight. After we arrived in Jammu I spent the rest of the day in the bathroom as my body rejected everything I tried to put into it. Nick put me up in a flashy CLEAN hotel and held my hair back as I was sick. What a sweetie. It was also Diwali (Hindu festival) so the noise of firecrackers (not to be mistaken for bombs) filled the air all night. An experience I don't think will be soon forgotten.

Got the train on Sunday to Amiritsar, home to the Golden Temple. Sikhs (turbans) everywhere. Very friendly group of people so far. Going to a boarder (Paki-India) ceremony this afternoon so that should be different. Heading back to Delhi tomorrow morn before we make our way to Agra- home of the Taj Mahal. Very much looking forward to that.

Much Love xxx

Traveling aint meant to be easy...

...But that's half the fun. Its not until I reflect on what we have done over the last week that I start to appreciate it.

Finally over the Manali-Leh experience and as you no doubt can tell I am still alive! Trip from Leh to Srinigar took two days with an overnight stop at Kargil. Spent half of the trip with my face in my hands hunched up in a fetus position as I was convinced we were going to go over the edge of the very narrow one lane passes. But we didn't, and we made it. The next worry was the very big military presence here. Army everywhere. Machine guns on every corner. Big mog trucks driving past filled with masked men and mounted machine guns. I just keep telling myself that if I keep out of their way they will keep out of mine and its working well so far. Very few tourists in Shrinigar so got a fairly good deal on a house boat on Dal lake. Gorgeous. Been there two days but feels like two weeks. It seems the lovely family we are staying with have it in their head that we are filthy rich and want to leave Kashmir with every possible souvenir from the area. Even the father took us to a carpet factory yesterday during a sightseeing tour that we had paid the man good money show us around town. He still wont give up on Nick 'why you not buy a carpet?...Very good investment...'' Cant really blame them though...We are probably the last source of income they will get till next summers tourists. Its a strange feeling knowing that they will never have opportunities to things that I have back home. Watching discovery channel last night, a show on mega structures being built in Vegas or something and one of the eldest sons was fascinated saying he had never seen a big building like that before. To me it was just another skyscraper but was strange to think that this young man may go his whole life and never see a skyscraper in a big city.

I am becoming more and more aware of how fortunate I am to have the opportunities I do.

Anyway, on the main land today for some time out from the family. I swear if we allowed them to sleep in our bed they would. Its been steadily raining all day and night so they bus trip we had planned for the morning to Jammu looks sketchy. I read in my guide that the hilly road is prone to landslides too so started to get a bit worried that we may get stuck here. Its Friday today, coming to the end of Ramadan so half the town is praying at the Mosque but we finally found a travel agent who was open and had power so was able to advise us of our options. We have now booked a flight for tomorrow out of Shrinigar to Jammu where we will get a bus or train to Amiritsa. It was not too much more that a private Jeep would have cost us anyway and much less trouble so I am relieved.

Well this post is getting longish and I never read long posts so doubt anyone will read this but if you are good on you and thank you.

India pics here

Peace, love and mungbeans babes xxxx

Still alive....just!

Where to begin?...Am just getting over the whole 17hr jeep trip from Manali to Leh. To explain briefly our driver who appeared off his face knew two speeds....Mega fast and stopped. Screaming along bumpy land and around sheer cliffs as high as 5000m. Driver kept taking his eyes off the road to fiddle with the tape deck (still cant get the Bollywood tunes out of my head) and to dig in his pockets for some kind of white sherbert he seemed so fond of. It took me ten minutes of being in the car to realise that it was very likely that I may die today. I found out later that Nick was having the same thoughts. We both suffered with the altitude, Nick vomiting in his cap and me experiencing a very acute and extreme agitation that Im glad didn't last very long. I wasn't hallucinating rather envisioning or daydreaming about me punching through the windows of the jeep...very strange. Our faces and hands went a patchy shade of blue with the lack of oxygen in our bodies. We couldn't stomach any food or water so we didn't eat or drink. But we did arrive in Leh...we may have been bruised, dusty, hungry, tired and thirsty but we were alive and thankful for it. Looking back (and it was only two days ago) I can smile about it but I swear it was the single most trying experience of my life.

Well that was then and moving right along tomorrow we embark on another 'journey into the unknown' as we make our way to Shrinigar. The Kashmir region boarders with Pakistan so expecting a big military presence and more Muslims. Leh being part of the Himalayas there is a really nice Tibetan influence. Mostly Buddhists and a few Muslims. And the food...best chow-mien ever. Tibetan looking kids everywhere, I just want to take one home with me. And there is something beautiful about the older Tibetans, they have the happiest wrinkly faces. They laugh and smile as they try to sell you something and all I want to do is give them a big cuddle, they are so cute. Leh has turned out to be a really worthwhile experience.

Oh well must go pack. Please pray for our safe journey to Shrinigar, I don't know if I can handle another Jeep from hell experience and we will be in contact again when we get there.

If you don't hear from me by the end of the week...Im probably dead. 'Just a little Finish humor' hey Allie ;-)

Love and hugs xx

p.s. think Nick had put more pics up and comments too...see link on post below.

Leh

Just a quick one to let you know we made it to Leh safely. One of the scariest and toughest experiences of my life, but I will tell you about it later.

Had some snow this morning, which kinda made up for it.

Some pictures of Dehli and Manali at:

http://lucas.intercate.net/gallery/India

Will write when I have a chance

xxx

Get it INDIA!

Ok...I know its been ages since mylast post, and heaps has happened since but that will all have to wait...

As the title sugestes Im in INDIA!!!!!!!!!!

Arrived in Dehli this morning after a long flight which would not have ben so bad except we both had throbing hangovers from a big last night out in London (thanks Allie and Steve ;->). We found a taxi to take us into the main bazzar which you think would be an easy request except it seems every man and his rickshaw wanted to take us somewhere 'safer' and 'better for lady'. I have heard the traffic was hetic but I dont think I have ever been so scared in my whole life as our taxi driver negotiated his way through what felt like a demolition darby. Suddenly from nowhere there was another man sitting in the front seat who had now asumed a role as our 'tourist guide' asking all types of personal questions of Nick who was answering true to his form, calmly and politely. This put me slightly at ease but I still would not make eye contact with the men or answer any of their questions with more than a yes or no. Two motor rickshaws and a brief walk (such a long story) we found ourselves out the front of a hotel in the main bazaar. Hot and tired we checked in and as we entred our room (which is more like a concrete prison cell) I swore to Nick that I had seen enough of India and I was ready to go home.

After a very much needed sleep, I woke with a face full of congestion (realy dusty place) and a sandpaper sore throat. Equipt with a little more knowledge from my lonley planet book (finding out that an Australian girl was killed 2 years ago by a taxi driver, making the same journey from the airport to main bazar as I had just done!!!!!!!!!!!Thanks for keeping that one quiet Nicholas!) I decided that I was not going to let a few million people, random stray cows and a bazaar ful of beautiful saris scare me, so off we went in search of food.

A good sleep and think had put everything into perspective and for the first time today I was excited to be here. So crazy. So much to tell. Had macaroni and chese for dinner (very Indian I know). Have been followed for about an hour by a man selling backgamon sets. At first we were interested and then remembered that we cant bring wood back into Aus, so he went away only to come back 10 mins later with a set made out of stone...no thanks....then again later with one made of camel skin...no thanks. I think I keep saying no just to see what he comes up with next. There is a plethora of beautiful fabrics and I am tempted to trow away all my clothes just so I can bring some home.

We are headed north to Manali tomorrow. Less crazy and sounds very picturesque. Cooler too. Dont know how I am going to cope with long pants and long sleves for a month in 35 deg heat.

By the way does anyone know if cows can kick?. I am a little cautious of the ones on the streets.

As I recall saying to Allie, I wanted to go to India for a culture shock...I dont think I fully understood what that meant. I am here to be challanged and I dont think I wil be disappointed.

I promised my Dad I will write more frequently so you all know we are safe.

Love you all and miss you heaps. Will be home very soon xxxxxx